Brick Mailbox Installation Kings provides brick mailbox installation, stone mailbox installation, and brick mailbox repair services in the St. Petersburg, FL area for both residential and commercial properties, from new columns to rebuilds of damaged ones. Contact us now for a free estimate.
Brick mailbox installation in St. Petersburg, FL costs anywhere from $730 to $1,460 on average for a single brick column with a concrete footing and a standard mailbox insert. The price depends on the size and design, the brick you choose, footing depth, soil conditions, removal of an old mailbox, and extras like lighting, a stone cap, or an address plaque.
Yes, we build brick mailboxes for houses, subdivision entrances, offices, and other commercial properties. Let us know how many boxes you need.
Yes, we cover the St. Petersburg, FL area. Send us the property address and we'll confirm.
We usually give you a start date when we confirm the estimate. Special-order brick and HOA approval are what most often push it back.
We need the address, a photo of the spot, the style you want, and whether an old mailbox has to come out. Tell us if you want it to match the brick on your house.
No, all the work is outside at the curb.
Yes, in some towns, usually depending on the height and location of the column. Permits typically run $45 to $145, and your local building department decides whether you need one.
Yes, in many neighborhoods. HOAs often set rules for size, brick, and cap style, and some communities need design approval before we can start. Send us the guidelines if you have them.
Yes, on many streets, but not everywhere. Some state transportation departments and towns ban rigid brick columns in the road right of way and require breakaway posts. Your road authority decides, and we check the rules for your street before building.
We set the mail opening 41 to 45 inches above the road surface, with the door 6 to 8 inches back from the curb. Those are USPS guidelines, and your local postmaster should approve a new mailbox.
Yes, we look at the site and the design and confirm the price before starting. If digging turns up something unexpected, like a buried old footing, we talk to you before going further.
Yes, usually a little. Pulling a standard post typically adds about $45 to $90, and breaking out an old brick column and footing costs more.
Yes, usually. The driver's auto liability coverage normally pays, and after a hit and run you can file a police report and claim it on your homeowners policy as an other structure, minus the deductible. We can give you an itemized estimate and photos for the claim.
Most brick mailboxes take 1 to 3 days. A new footing has to cure before the brick goes up, so custom columns often run 2 to 3 days.
In mild climates, we pour a footing about 2 feet square and 8 inches deep on compacted gravel. In cold climates we take it below the local frost line so freezing ground can't heave the column, and your building department sets that depth.
Yes, in most cases. Newer brick is usually easy to match, while older or discontinued brick may take some searching. If you have a leftover brick from the house, give it to us to take to the supplier.
Yes, we build natural and manufactured stone mailboxes too.
Yes, we can build the column around a locking column-mount mailbox or fit one into an existing column. Most locking designs fit columns built with king or queen size brick, while modular brick columns fit fewer models.
Yes, in most cases we cut the old insert out, set a new one in mortar, and patch the brick around it without tearing the column down. If you're picking the new one, measure the opening between the end bricks.
Yes, and a solar light needs no wiring at all. A wired light needs a buried cable from the house, an electrician, and often an electrical permit. Tell us before we start so we can plan the column around it.
Yes, and if the footing is still solid we can often reuse it. Send photos of the damage and tell us whether the base has moved.
Yes, but a lean usually means the footing has moved, so the fix is in the base, not the brick. In most cases we take the column down, pour a new footing, and rebuild it plumb.
Yes, if the cracks are minor and the column is still straight. We can reset loose bricks and replace crumbling mortar, which typically runs $150 to $400. Cracks through the bricks or a shifted column usually mean a rebuild.
Yes, in most cases. We clean the old mortar off the bricks that come off whole, relay them, and only buy new brick to replace the broken ones.
Yes, we pull the old post and its concrete, then pour a much bigger footing for the brick column.
Yes, but many counties only replace a plow-damaged mailbox with a standard post and box, not brick, so the rebuild is often on you. Check your county's mailbox policy before we start.
Yes, once your local post office approves the new spot, especially if it moves away from the street. We build the new column there and remove the old one.
Yes, we can build a wider column or a double column for two households. Both neighbors should agree on the design, cost split, and upkeep before we start.
Yes, we can set an address plaque or house numbers into the column.
Most brick mailboxes get a cast stone, limestone, or bluestone cap, or a finished brick top. We set the cap last, once the masonry below has cured.
Yes, we can leave an opening for a newspaper holder below the mailbox. Tell us before we lay the brick, since it's built in as the column goes up.
Yes, and we size the footing to carry the planter as well as the column, so mention it before we dig.
No, we can supply it, or build around one you've chosen. If you buy it, get a column-mount model made for masonry and have it on site before we start.
Yes, we have public utility lines marked before we dig. Most states require a few working days' notice, and water, gas, and cable lines often run near the street.
Yes, because 811 marks public utility lines, not private sprinkler pipes, landscape lighting, or septic lines. Flag anything you know runs near the mailbox spot.
Yes, in most cases, but heavy rain and freezing temperatures can push the schedule back. Concrete and mortar need decent weather to cure properly, so we plan around the forecast.
Yes, but rocky ground, hard clay, or a high water table makes digging slower and may call for a bigger footing, which can raise the price a little.
We use a gravel base, a poured concrete footing with vertical rebar, a concrete block core, face brick, Type N or Type S mortar, and a metal mailbox insert, finished with a cap.
No, not usually. Installed faux brick covers cost about the same as a real brick column. We can put one in within a few hours because it slips over a standard post, but it doesn't have the weight or footing of real masonry.
Yes, if you're handy, and materials alone run roughly $100 to $340. Most DIY failures come from a shallow or uneven footing, which lets the column lean or crack.
No, not in a way you can count on. It adds curb appeal and outlasts a wood post, but there's no reliable evidence it raises resale value dollar for dollar.
Decades, in most cases, if it's built on a solid footing with good mortar. The metal insert often wears out sooner, and we can replace it without taking the column down.
Yes, we wash excess mortar off the brick and haul away broken brick and leftover material before we leave.
No, not usually. Brick and mortar need to breathe, and the wrong sealer can trap moisture. If you want one, we use a breathable water repellent once the masonry has cured.
